A River Runs Through (It) South Florida
The Loxahatchee River
This may come as a surprise even to some lifelong Floridians that yes, in fact south Florida does have a river flowing through it, and not just any river, not a “canal”, but a true flowing river, one of only two, wild and scenic, federally protected rivers in the entire state!
Maybe it’s due to the fact that from satellite images, the headwaters section of this river is completely hidden by a thick lush canopy, making it difficult to map out or visualize your trip ahead of time.
Maybe it’s due to the fact that fishing this river “solo” or otherwise for that matter can prove to be extremely challenging, thanks to the steady flow, constant twists and turns as well as debris piles and fallen ancient size cypress trees from many storms past.
Or maybe it’s due to the fact that this narrow, 7 plus miles of meandering ebbs and flows are so visually different then what most people think of when planning to target snook in South Florida that they consider it just a scenic paddling spot and not a world-class fishery.
Either way you won’t hear me complaining about it because for whatever the reason it has allowed this river to stay virtually untouched compared to many of the surrounding fisheries.
On a typical weekend the river becomes a popular destination for experienced paddlers, beginners and families alike. There’s a small stand inside the park where you can rent kayaks, so expect crowds as the day progresses. These crowds don’t bother me though because by that time I’m far down river. I’ve probably already passed a couple resident gators, spotted an owl or an otter if I’m lucky and hopefully caught a snook or at least a couple bass.
I’ll occasionally see the hardcore paddle boarder or kayaker pass by me on their way to Johnathon Dickinson State Park or to the famous trapper Nelson’s interpretive site. Rarely I’ll see another person fishing, but not “serious fishing”, not according to my standards at least and for this I fear there’s good reason.
Fishing this river requires a lot more than just patience and a decent cast. The steady flow of water and the lush overhead canopies are enough to frustrate even the most zen of anglers.
Now, I’m not saying I’m proud of this, although funny as it is, on more than one occasion, I have sent friends down this river with hope in their hearts and a twinkle in their eyes, only for them to come back yielding great stories of kayaks flipped and tackle lost. Even an experienced paddle guide can easily find trouble in this terrain where ancient cypress stumps litter your course, barely visible, just beneath the water's surface.
The Loxahatchee river starts out fresh in Jupiter, Florida and flows northeast towards the city of Hobe sound where it eventually empties into the Jupiter Lagoon.
The Loxahatchee river is home to all four subspecies of snook (common, fat, tarpon-snook and swordspine) and all four can be routinely found throughout the headwaters. Juvenile tarpon, largemouth bass and even the bigmouth sleeper goby are commonly caught on this stretch of river.
All of these species, including the occasional odd ball like a young mangrove snapper or jack crevalle are exciting and welcomed opponents in this challenging environment, but more often than not it’s the snook we’re after.
Large common snook, well over 30 inches and some even topping 40 plus are the main targets when nearing the salt and brackish waters of the lagoon but up in the headwaters it’s all about the Fat!
The largest of the subspecies after the common snook is the fat snook and as their name suggests, they tend to have a belly on them. Don’t let their short and stocky size fool you though, measuring in at a top length of about 25 - 27 inches, these fish are no dummies. They are smart and seem to effortlessly use the river currents as well as any debris piles to thwart your attempts at landing them. One pass with a perfectly presented fly or soft plastic is just about all you’ll get, mess that up and it’s bye bye, on to the next one.
Luckily, there’s seldom a shortage of opportunities while fishing these headwaters. As long as the guide can keep the canoe steady and as long as the angler can keep their casts out of the trees, you're bound to have a successful day on the water.
Even if the canoe is shaky or the trees are all that you’re catching, you’ll be doing so in one of the most picturesque and unique fisheries in all of South Florida.
A true hidden gem…
About Thomas DiMatteo
Thomas is a lifelong Floridian who has guided fishing trips across the state. Based in Sebastian, FL he guides trips on the Loxahatchee River, but you can also regularly find him chasing snook, reds, tarpon and more on the Indian River Lagoon. To learn more about Thomas and to book his service, click the link below!
